Toda embroidery is a distinct style of embroidery of the Toda tribal community of Nilgiri district in Tamil Nadu. It is locally known as ‘Pugur’, which means flower. The embroidery is so fine that the fabric looks like woven cloth. Both sides of the embroidered fabric are usable. Tribe forwards this unique style of embroidery from generation to generation. Toda people are proud of this unique heritage. Toda embroidery is part of their daily life as they wear thick traditional garments with hand embroidery.
More than 300 Toda women are dependent on this profession. They are very expert in embroidery on the surface of plain cotton material. The local term for the embroidery work used by artisans is ‘kuty’ or ‘awtty’ meaning stitching and ‘kutyvoy’ means the embroidered piece. The embroidered shawl is called “Puthukuli” in local terms. Young Toda girls learn this craft by observing the works done by the elders of the community. As a custom of the community, dead body is always wrapped with Toda embroidered fabric and then buried. Men and women both use the embroidered cloth in all ceremonies and funerals.
The material used by artisans in this work are roughly hand-woven white cloth, woolen or cotton black and red threads and needles. The designs of the embroidery are inspired by their daily life and surrounding nature. The fabric is loosely woven as embroidery is done by counting the weaves (warp and weft) and the color is white because embroidery is done with red and black woolen threads. Todas use the rougher underside of the fabric as the right side. The geometric design is done by counting the warp and weft on the fabric. Artisans sew without a set pattern, inspired by their own imagination. The women embroider within these stripes using a single stitch darning needle without any frame and count threads on fingers. Artisans were using vegetable fibre as threads, while now embroidery threads are used as threads. The shawl has alternate red and black stripes at the gap of six inches. The embroidery on the shawls which is done on the left of the black stripe (around the two red stripes) is called the karnol, while the embroidered pattern on the right is called the karthal.
The primary motif of the tribal is buffalo horn as they worship buffalos. Other patterns used for embroidery are generally wildflowers, mountains, valley, sun, moon, rabbit, reptiles, etc. Another important design is black triangles in a box design in honor of their priest. Other than Toda shawls,other various products are made from this traditional embroidery such as dupattas, table cloth, cell phone pouch, stoles, kurtis, skirts, pants,salwar-kurta, purse, bags, frocks, etc.
The demand for Toda embroidered clothes has been declining over the past few years. It’s really hard for artisans to sell more than 4–5 pieces of hand-woven textiles each day in shops and other shops operated with help of the forest department near tourist attractions in Nilgiri. This craft is also facing a challenge from duplicate products of Toda embroidery.
Toda embroidery is extraordinary and unique from other arts. Artisans are carrying this legacy to symbolize dignity which is also an expression of their culture and aesthetic values with needles and threads. It was granted Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2012. However, it is hard for this craft to survive and is in danger of becoming extinct as many people are unaware of this craft along with competition from duplicated products. The art can revive and save the rich culture of tribal art by creating a market for them, innovating in designs and products and capacity building of the artisans.
