Tangaliya weaving is practiced in the Surendranagar district of Gujarat. It is a unique art with dotted splendor and is also known as Daana weaving. The name Tangaliya is derived from the word Tang (leg) means a lower part of the body as Tangaliya was traditionally draped around the waist. This indigenous craft has a history of around 700 years rooted in the Saurashtra region of Gujarat. The Dangasia (Shepherd) community of this region has knowledge of the Tangaliya weaving technique. Weaving used to carry out in 26 villages by this community. The distinctiveness of this weaving is twisting extra weft while weaving created on both sides of the fabric which creates beautiful dotted geometrical patterns and forms.
As artisans say Tangaliya originated with the love story of a young boy from the Shepherd community and a girl from the weaving community. The boy fell in love with a girl from the weaver community and married her but displeased his family and they didn’t welcome this couple. The boy started learning weaving from his in-laws and started making wool from sheep for the weaving. So the art of Tangaliya weaving came into being. Another version of the story also says that the boy had a hard time earning so his family gave sheep wool and grains to him but in return, he weaved shawls and other garments for the shepherd community. He innovated the weaving technique of shawls by introducing thread beads that look like daana weaving. This textile is used as a shawl or wraparound skirt by women of the shepherd community of Wankaner, Amreli, Surendranagar, Botad, Bhavnagar, Dehgam and Kutchh area.
The raw material required for Tangaliya is wool, cotton, silk, acrylic and cotton yarns for making Daana designs on fabrics. The process of Tangaliya weaving needs for accuracy and a high skill level. As per requirement, Artisans buy yarn from Ahmedabad. It normally follows two steps, Warping (preparation of bobbin from yarn) and weaving. Tangaliya fabric is woven in pit looms. Daanas made with the contrast color thread, along with the warp yarn so it creates the effect of raised dots. Since the yarn dots are wrapped around the warp with the weft threads, the design can be seen on both sides of the fabric. Traditionally, Tangaliya shawls are made in black, white and maroon colors. But, nowadays every color is available and dyed yarns are also available in the market. Tangaliya motif is inspired by their surroundings and their culture. Traditionally, the most favorite motif of community is the Laadwa (Indian sweet). Peacock, temple, trees, ambo (mango tree), geometric designs like circles, squares, triangles, etc. are also used as basic motifs for Tangaliya.
The different types of Tangaliya weaving done by artisans are Ramraj (heavy beadwork, borders with woven zari, the base fabric of black and maroon wool doe embroidery), Dhunslu(less Daana work, White and maroon Daana work, worn by aged women), Charmalia (maroon and black warp and black weft with white Daanas), Lobadi (made from off- white wool, dyed in red color, simple Daana work). Products made by artisans are not only restricted to shawls but also jackets, some stationery items and home linen using Tangaliya.
In the current scenario, Traditional Tangaliya weaving is only practiced in the Derwada village of Surendranagar while in other villages it has been contemporized according to market needs. Like most other handmade textiles products, the power loom and cheaper textiles have taken their place and created problems for artisans' livelihood. Due to lack of awareness, they face difficulties in selling the products and only a few youngsters are practicing this traditional profession. The weaver’s community has started working as laborers on-farm or has migrated elsewhere for livelihood. Although, the institute like Saath and National Institute of Fashion Technology (NIFT), Gandhinagar supported this craft and worked in design development, product development, infrastructure development, marketing and skill training areas. Tangaliya shawl is registered under Geographic Indication by NIFT which helped to protect and add value to this craft. Though, it still needs consistent intervention for sustained presence.
