Patola is famous hand woven silk sarees from Patan district of Gujarat. Patola is a double Ikat weaving style which makes it one of the most popular sarees of India. The name Patola is derived from the Sanskrit word ‘Pattakulla’, which is the plural form of the Gujarati word Patolu. Patola weaving is the most complicated technique of weaving in the world as it follows the double Ikat style for the warp and weft yarns. These yarns are dyed according to a pre-designed set of patterns. The Patola of Patan has also received its Geographical Indication Certificate in 2013.
The Art of Patola Weaving is very ancient as it was known in the 4th century in “Ajanta” Caves, which resembles the tie-dyes technique of Patola. Artisan of the Salvi caste from Maharashtra and Karnataka came to Patan due to the special request of Raja Kumar Pal in 1143AD. The king used to wear Patola daily for worship as he was following Jainism under the guidance of Kalikal Sarvgagna Hemchandracharya. Once when King came to know that the patola is from Mungipattan and king use the patolas and then sends it to other people which was not right. So King Kumar Pal called upon all the 700 craftsmen families of Mungipattan to came & settle down in Patan where all these needs were fulfilled. From then onwards patolas are made in Patan only. Each day the king wore a new Patola for his worship. The Solanki (Chalukya) rulers used to dress in Patola silk themselves on special occasions.
Patola sarees are very durable and gorgeous looking among all handmade sarees. The Double Ikat means once a fabric is woven by artisans, you cannot differentiate between the sides in colour, feel, design and look. Due to its unique weaving techniques, one can wear it both side. Patola sarees are produced by the Bandhani process of tie and dyeing on both the warp and weft. The dyeing and the weaving process are extremely complex, requiring mathematical precision coupled with vivid imaginations. Colors are developed on warp and weft so the colors of Patola are fast and never wash out. Due to this quality, there is a famous proverb in Gujarati, “Padi Patola Bhat, Fate Pan Fite Nahi” which means the designs once placed in Patola will never be washed till the fabric torn out. In Gujarat, Patolas were used to give to brides on the occasion of marriage as a sign of good omen.
The normal process of Patola making is colouring and designing the silk threads in some parts as per predesigned, weaving on handloom and finishing. The Colouring process takes more time depending on the colors used in the designs. It may go up to 75–80 days. Two artisans work on the handloom so that they match the design on both sides during weaving. After a part of weaving is finished they give it its finishing touch. Sometimes the whole family is involved in the process of Patola Making. Making more complicated designs of Patola can go up to 2–3 years which is of high value in the market. Patola Sarees cost anywhere between Rs 1 lacs to Rs 7 lacs depending on the patterns and time invested by artisans. Patterns used on the border of sarees are the abstract geometrical patterns, flora, fauna, elephant style, flower motifs, jewels, and dancing maidens. Products that are developed from the Patola fabrics are sarees,Jackets and stoles.
In the current scenario, there are only 2–3 Salvi families in Patan performing this art. Patola is facing sustainability issues due to changing market trends and cheaper substitute. The cheaper substitute is getting more demand as the traditional method is taking little time for production. The single Ikat craft of Patola from other districts like Surendranagar and Rajkot of Gujarat is also one of the reasons. Artisans of these regions make replicas of Patan Patolas with similar designs with single ikat which is faster and cheaper than Patola.
Patola is a holy silk cloth. The double Ikat weaving style that Patola uses is what makes it one of the most popular sarees of Indian tradition. No doubt Artisans are facing issues of market and competition. However, there is no comparison between the Patola of Patan and any other handmade textile in the world due to its characteristics and quality. Patola has also attracted many Bollywood stars and designers in the last few years. Let’s hope that Patola art is one that will never fade like its colors.
