India is home to a different kinds of Durries where each region has its own style and designs. Durries are made manually by skilled artisans in their own traditional styles on the loom. Navalgund Durries are also woven Durrie in the Dharwad district of Karnataka. Navalgund Durries are also known as “Jamkhanas” in the local Kannada Language meaning floor mats which are used as floor coverings for decorations. Navalgund Durrie is a woven floor covering made of twisted cotton yarn that is used on certain occasions like weddings, personal ceremonies, religious gatherings, etc. Navalgund Durrie is made out of cotton which is known for its excellence in quality of its structure, originality of colors and form.
This craft was initiated by Ali Adil Shah of Bijapur, Karnataka. In the 16th century, during a battle between Deccan Sultanate and Vijayanagar Empire, Artisans migrated from Bijapur to the Navalgund of Karnataka. Navalgund means Peacock in Kannada as this place was famous for this beautiful bird. Weavers continued making of this craft and incorporated peacock design as a part of the pattern in the Jamkhana (Durries).
Durrie weaving is done on a vertical or upright loom which is installed permanently in the house. Yarns are used as the primary raw material for Durrie which is purchased from Huli. The first step is the preparation of warp (set of threads) and weft. As per Durrie's size, this cotton yarn is converted into balls while the warp is made in the open yard of the house. This warp is spread to the loom and weaving is done in a predesigned pattern. Weaving is mainly done indoors by the women where two artisans face each other and work on the loom. Jamkhana (mats) are woven weft-faced where different colored yarns are inserted from the finger hanks moving in one direction and then returning in the opposite direction. Tibni (wooden tool) is used to guide the weft down its place. Weavers are that expert and experienced that they do not need any graphs. Artisans memorize it and give a personal touch to each Durrie. After completion of weaving, it is taken off from the loom and extra threads are cut and tassels are made at the end of the warps.
Durries are made in different categories as per size. Jamkhana and Jainamaz are different styles in which one can see differences in their use and patterning. Mats are used by a single person for prayers and the other is used by a community in the prayer hall. A particular feature of these Durries is that no two Durries are alike in colour and size. Durrie is divided into three different parts, where the centre is woven with geometric and natural forms while both ends are woven in reflected symmetry. The primary colors used in the background are red; yellow to set colors to place within and white as accent colors. Some traditional motifs used in the Jamkhanas are diamond shape with a double and single edge, geometrical pattern, flower, vertical and horizontal stripes, peacock, the board of traditional dice games, etc.
These Durries are woven by women at home. At one stage, there were 75 women working on this handicraft, but due to lack of facilities and poor returns, now only 35 women are engaged in weaving the rugs. The artisans are quite secretive about their art of weaving these Durries, and the skill is taught only to their daughters–in law and not to their daughters as after marriage they would go away to another family.
Navalgund Durrie is distinct from other Durries and artisans are very talented. Most women artisans are dependent on this craft as it is their source of income. Unfortunately, this art is getting extinct due to less demand and the high expense of manufacturing. Many artisans have stopped weaving and switched to other occupations. People are also not aware of this craft due to less marketing of the products. Although Navalgund Durrie is registered under the Geographical Indication Act of Trade-Related Intellectual Property Rights (TRIPS) agreement in 2011. Hope it will create some impact for making this craft sustain and popular among consumers. There is still scope of creating a market and design development to create awareness in the consumer market for government and local institutions to make this ancient craft sustainable
